It would not matter if your GM vehicle was assembled in Georgia, Ohio, Oklahoma or Michigan. The plants all employ the same techniques of production with the same materials using the same methods with the same result.
The Cuban cigar industry is a monopoly, and the distinctions between the various factories are meaningless. If you're talking about a Punch Churchill from factory PAS or from factory XYZ, there's really no appreciable difference. If a Punch Churchill is made by roller "A" at factory "1", and another Punch Churchill is made by roller "X" at factory "5", they use the same materials, and the same technique, with the same blend, the same quality control, the same quality of materials, in the same ratio. And best of all...it's a Cadillac.
If you're looking to buy cigars from 2000/2001, I'd be wary of them, no matter what factory they're from. There's a reason they're still around - because they've been repeatedly picked over by those who would know a good cigar from a not-so-good cigar. The late-1990's/early-2000's were years where production quotas soared and newer and less experienced rollers were brought on line to make more an more cigars with the same amount of materials. Not only were there construction problems because of the lack of experience on the part of the roller, cigars were being made with tobacco that would otherwise have been rejected for one reason or another, and were made with inert filler because there was a lack of ligero and seco (there are 3 parts to a cigar: tripa (or guts), capote (or binder), and capa (or wrapper); and the tripa consists of inert 'volado', 'seco' that imparts flavor, and 'ligero' that imparts strength). So, while there were some absolute gems from that period, if cigars from 2000 are still around, chances are great that there are problems somewhere.
But as far as factory codes are concerned? Really a non-issue, and there's really no sense to sweat it as many people do looking for information about where their cigars are from...
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Posts: 10602 | Location: Avenida de las Nalgas, Quericæstan | Registered: May 02, 2002
The factory codes change all the time and most people don't even bother to keep up with them anymore because of that and because of the pretty much uniform quality from factory to factory for the last several years. If the reason you are asking is for authentification purposes, a better and easier way to use (although, not the ONLY way, obviously) is comparing the first two letters on the serial # to the box date. With cigar boxes from 01, the serial numbers should start with "A" or "B". The first letters of the serial numbers continue to ascend year by year and we now see boxes from 08 starting with the letter "I".
So, for example, if you see a box from 07 or 08 where the serial # starts with A, B, D....avoid. If you see a box from 01 with a serial # that starts with G, H, I.....avoid.
This message has been edited. Last edited by: The Peacemaker,
Better beautiful than perfect
Posts: 1257 | Location: AZ | Registered: September 11, 2005
Originally posted by The Peacemaker: The factory codes change all the time and most people don't even bother to keep up with them anymore because of that and because of the pretty much uniform quality from factory to factory for the last several years. If the reason you are asking is for authentification purposes, a better and easier way to use (although, not the ONLY way, obviously) is comparing the first two letters on the serial # to the box date. With cigar boxes from 01, the serial numbers should start with "A" or "B". The first letters of the serial numbers continue to ascend year by year and we now see boxes from 08 starting with the letter "I".
So, for example, if you see a box from 07 or 08 where the serial # starts with A, B, D....avoid. If you see a box from 01 with a serial # that starts with G, H, I.....avoid.
Thank you for that information.
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Posts: 1049 | Location: Iowa | Registered: October 24, 2008
